Chain Lube "Magic"

 MANY MAGIC LUBE METHODS

Here's the thing about novel and well-intended chain lube methods: How do you know it works? Lubrication is a long game. Wear is measured over months and 1000s of kms. How can any one person tell if their method is valid? You might be personally happy but you really don't know if you're creating more drivetrain friction and wear compared to a more conventional approach.

In the auto industry, we have independent testing so we can use the right lubricant, in the proper manner, for the correct time interval. I might think olive oil and WD-40 is a great crankcase lube. Testing will say otherwise. Not so in the bike world. Independent testing is scarce.

ZERO FRICTION

Many in this group know about https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/ . Good work is being done here. Understanding their testing protocols requires some work - but worth it if you ask me.

SOME TAKEAWAYS ZERO FRICTION TESTING:

Long term chain wear is their indirect indicator for friction (low watts) and best handling of dirt and other contamination. No actual friction testing is performed.

• Wax generally works best but needs consistent cleaning and re-application: every 300 kms, which is 2 weeks for me. Also has best performance after getting wet but you still need to clean and re-apply to be safe.
• Wet lube is #2. It's messy and can wash out easily. Once it gets dirty, wet lube is quite horrible.
• Drip lube (that is allowed to dry before use) is a viable compromise between wax and wet lube. It lasts longer than most other methods since can reapplied without a deep clean. It resists dirt almost as well as wax. Waiting for it to dry is a PITA.
• (a shocker for me) Dry lube basically doesn't work since it won't flow properly between parts and doesn't stay put.
• What do you think? Does testing help you pick the best lube for your chain? How else do you decide?